Using Kalmaker Workshop is much the same as using Street Pro 3 as it is based on the same Kalmaker 3 layout and appearance.
Kalmaker Workshop is based very much on the Factory software, and as such doesn't have the extra non-factory features of Street Pro 3, but all Workshop Variables are included in Street Pro 3, so for the engine variables most commonly used refer to Using Street Pro 3

The Variables listed below refer to the Transmission Variables of W20 & W30 (94 to 96 models)


To find the Variable List, first you must Load a Calibration.
To do this, Select Buffer 1 or 2 \ Read \ kal3.bin \ (select W20 type calibration)
THEN, Select Buffer 1 \ Edit

Listed are the 25 most used transmission variables in numerical order. Press
Help Button when in each Variable for further information

NOTE, Mode 0 refers to Economy Mode
            Mode 1 refers to Power Mode

463 VAR:MPH:MPHFAC Change this when changing Diff ratio. eg. 512 x 3.08 divide by .633m = 2490         
526 TCC:MPH:WDM02, Only change this if you change corresponding tps variable 554 TCC:MPH:PDM02
      note the code breakdown of above WDM02, W = wot, D =
disable, M0 = Economy Mode, 2 = Gear 2
                                another example   PEM14,  P = part throttle, E =
Enable, M1 = Power Mode, 4 = Gear 4
      Learn these codes and the rest becomes easy.
      Also press Help Button to see the associated tables for TCC and Shift Points.
527 TCC:MPH:WDM03, same as above, except for - wot, disable, economy, gear 3
528 TCC:MPH:WDM04, same as above, except for gear 4
529 TCC:MPH:WEM02, same as above except for - Enable, gear 2
530 TCC:MPH:WEM03, get the picture……...
531 TCC:MPH:WEM04, ………...
541 TCC:MPH:PEM02[tps], these are the - part throttle, enable tables (for TCC lockup converter).
      this particular table is maxxed out for no lockup in 2nd gear.
      Variables 542 & 543 are for gear 3 & 4 and these are changed (if at all) before changing tables above.
      Variables 554 to 556 are the same except for the disable of gears 2, 3 & 4.
      Note that the area above all of the load points is where the TCC is locked up.
      Call this area the lockup window. This is the same in Disable or Enable tables.
      The same thing applies in the Shift Point tables below.                     
621 SHF:GDX:WUM012, SHF = shift, GDX = gear change, the rest is similar to above except
      W = wot, U =
upshift, M0 = economy, 12 = 1st gear to 2nd gear.
      This and the RPM variable below are the wot thresholds, which means at wot both of these threshold
      must be reached before it will change gear. Therefore if you have trouble with the engine hitting the rev
      limiter before it changes gear, you must decrease one of, or both these variables.
      Once you have determined this point, change your part throttle points below (
PUM0 12 etc) at 100% to
      the same figure and then ramp the other tps% down accordingly
      You will notice in the unaltered factory cals that this speed is the same as at 100% tps. Same for 622 &
      623 and then the Downshift variables 653 to 655.
627 SHF:GDX:WUR012, the R = rpm. This is the rpm threshold for that gear. See Above.
      Note- Make sure Shift Rev Limit is lower than the Engine rev limit, otherwise it wont shift (at wot)
      Same for 628 & 629
639 SHF:GDX:PUM012[tps], this is part throttle, upshift, economy, 1st to 2nd. Lift these to raise shift point.
      The window above these load points is where it will upshift to 2nd gear. Once it has shifted, it wont
      change back to 1st until it moves out of the window in Variable 662 SHF:PDM021[tps].
      This applies to 640 & 641 and Power Mode 642 to 644, and then the Downshift tables 662 to 667.
      These shift point tables usually only need changing when using larger throttle body than standard or twin
      throtts etc, because at say 50% throttle the engine may breath more air now than it did at 100% previous.
      This will cause engine to change gear too early, so 50% tps should be the same as 100% and ramp
      down from there. You will have to fine tune this and make sure it doesn't kick down too early etc.
779 PTS:BAS:PTSL, Base Pressure Torque Signal which basically means Base Line Pressure below  64
      mph. PTS is limited to
780 PTS:BAS:PTSH, same as above except above 64 mph. These tables are better read in the x axis.
      Increasing the part tps points increases line pressure and therefore shift pressure similar to shift kit.
      Adjust this to suit torque of engine
783 PTS:GDL:PTS2M0[tps], Use this to increase or decrease shift firmness into gear 2 economy mode.
      If you have shift kit installed and it is too harsh, use a minus figure to soften, ramp from say -60 at 0% tps
      to say 0 psi at 25% tps.
      Same for 784 & 785 and Power mode 786 to 788.
774 PTS:ITQ:PTS2, Use this to soften harsh shift when tranny fluid is cold ie thicker.
      Same for 775 & 776

This is generally all that is required to make these 4L60e boxes perform very well.
Although just about everything can be very much improved for high performance driving by use of the software alone, about the only thing that cant be improved by much is the shift times. This is due to the Accumulator pistons which take time to fill (hence accumulate) with fluid, and can only be modified mechanically, by changing springs or pistons etc.
I haven't covered shift times in these variables for this reason. I have played with them with limited results, but with the above mods only, you can get very good results.
Usually, when toughening up these trannies, use a heavy duty reaction shell and billet clutch pack drum, then add extra and better clutch packs, and at the same time add Corvette servos etc. and modify Accumulators.

Its very impressive how you can fine tune these boxes either to shift like animals everywhere, or for us old been everywhere, done everything blokes who like them a bit more refined so that when part throttle driving, they shift like a stocker, ( and also wife doesn't notice )( the real reason ha ha), then when you nail it the tyres  howl in every gear.

WARNING  The information supplied on this page and others is my opinion and I take no responsibility for any damages or warranty from modifications that anyone makes to their own or other peoples vehicles.
Use this information at your own risk.

Be Very Careful when modifying other peoples transmissions.
You should drive around in the vehicle for a while first and check that it is in good working condition, then suck out the RAM from the SRAM or Eprom and then check Variables 9 to 13 RAM:PAM etc.
This will show what's slipping and by how much and give you an indication of condition.
If it looks suspect, don't touch it, because you know that the guy is going to beat up on it, and if he blows it up, he'll be knocking at your door.